I agree, that "city" is indeed a bold word to describe Durham with. For most people it's a quaint old college town, somewhat dwarfed by the state school (who I'll not name to maintain the purity of this blog) down the road. For me, it will always be my first home in the US. A place with a swirl of quirkiness and warmth hovering over it. A place where Starbucks people actually give you complimentary coffee for graduating or acing an exam (true and true). A place where taxi drivers drive back to return your wallet, a place where a hair salon brews its own beer and you actually get tipsy while getting a hair cut and finally, a place where a traffic cop will let you go with just a warning and not a ticket (OK I'll admit that last incident might be a one off because I've gotten my share of speeding tickets as well)
I've always believed you can fathom the content of a town's character by its food. I'll always associate Durham with warm, soul enriching food. No hoity-toity, stiff upper lippy food with complicated names but simple, down to earth goodness, that can rouse the very best in mortals if needed. So while I sit here in my Chicago's apartment, I miss not sitting in my favourite cafe, I miss fried food and I miss the southern drawl, which usually fronts for friendliness and warmth. So,methinks it would be grave if I didn't document all my favourite haunts. Even at the risk of rousing my food craving and not being able to fulfill it sadly.
1. Saladelia Cafe: I'll always consider Saladelia my secret abode. This was the first cafe I stumbled into after landing in Durham. Though, initially I went there for the Free Wi-Fi, later on I began going there more for the food and the soothing Jazz music. It was my place to ponder from, wonder about and watch the world at work. It was also a place that encouraged musicians and there'd hardly be a weekend where a Jazz band did not play. I'll always remember those sun drenched Saturdays, watching a Jazz quartet play and just reveling in the insouciance of the moment. I'll also remember it for Fida, the owner of Saladelia. She gave me the tightest hug anybody ever gave me, every time she saw me. She'd always be there to listen to my experiences in a new country, while sharing with me her own, as a Lebanese student in the 90s. But then there was the Food. The best hummus you ever ate, or a Gyro or a wrap. I'll miss sauntering into Saladelia on a Saturday afternoon and eating a great brunch, while planning the rest of the glorious weekend, with jazz music as background score to my existence.
2. Fosters/Parker & Otis: Brunch reminds me of all the great conversations I've had with people at both these places. If Saladelia was my solitary haunt, Fosters and P&O, was where I socialized and revelled in the opinion of the other. Both places had a typical southern-house ambiance and decor. Both were cluttered with candy, pots & pans, cook books, preserves and every odd kitchen nick-knack one could possibly think of. Oddly, the very clutter made it more welcoming and homely. I loved entering these two places and being lost in the aroma and the noise at once. But transformational conversations is what I'll treasure it for the most. Whether it was talking about startups and business plans or love life and boys, I always left feeling smarter than when I entered. It's like these places fostered discussion. The food mainly consisted of sandwiches, salads and wraps but good, ole fashioned talk was what made it special.
3. Dains: One of my biggest achievements in B-school was not getting a job but winning the Dain's Trivia. Dain's is the official college bar of Duke and every Wednesday, they also have Trivia which is pretty tough to win, given that a lot of teams compete in it and so, thats why it is one of the hallmark of my B-school experience. Dain's also has the best veggie burger in town.
4. Bull City Burger & Beverages: speaking of burgers, I would duel anybody who didn't think these guys had the best burger in the town. I still wildly crave the "Green Monster" with Duck fat fries. Oh mother-o-gawd. The burgers here make me wish I were pregnant and a carte blanche to eat how much ever I wanted. sigh.They are THAT GOOD!
5. Guglhupf Cafe: More than brunch, I loved coming here for their dinner specials. Their food had a lot of European (though mainly German) influence. I loved their schnitzel, beef short ribs and pan roasted salmon the best. Their desserts were out of this world! My thrill of the evening would be to choose MY dessert from the dessert tray laden with pretty,eye-popping desserts. Sigh, loved it!
6. Broad Street Cafe: Great for beer, pizza and random live band on a Friday Night. Actually, the best kept secret was their Chocolate chess pie, which a good friend once told me about. We often went there just for that particular dessert.
7. Local Yogurt: My favourite yogurt place. They have the best tasting frozen yogurt in the country methinks. So natural and tart. Always a great spot for catching up with friends during the week or to chase the mid week blues away.
8. Vimala's Curry Blossom Cafe: Though technically not in Durham, I'll add this to the list because I can't help but crave for their fried plantains. Great, home cooked Indian food with none of the usually greasy dishes that you expect from Indian restaurants in the US. This place is special also because, when the owner felt like it, she made a pretty awesome fish curry that just drenched your soul in satisfaction.
Lot of other awesome places that I'll miss : Vin Rouge (French), Dane's Indian Lunch house, Tyler's Tap Room, Thai Cafe, Twisted Noodles, Chubby's Tacos (Mexican), Queen of Sheeba (Ethiopian) , Mediterranean Grill (Greek/Turkish) and many more.
Oh Durham, I'll miss your food sooo much but darn, all that food talk has made me SEVERELY hungry now!
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